Home to one of the world’s oldest civilisations, Iran boasts some of the greatest treasures of the ancient and Islamic world. Yet, these historical wonders, which include an impressive 21 World Heritage sites, aren’t the country’s only draw. Iranians are some of the friendliest people you’ll ever come across, with their effortless warmth and eagerness to engage in conversation.
Following the landmark nuclear deal in 2015, visiting this mysterious and misunderstood country has become more attractive than ever, especially for Australian travellers who can obtain a visa on arrival. Last year, Iran welcomed more than six million tourists and is hoping to entice 20 million visitors by 2025.
The history of economic sanctions means luxury hotels are in short supply, which makes the Golden Eagle private train all the more appealing. After a day’s sightseeing, passengers can watch the landscapes of Iran roll by accompanied by the tinkling of a pianist, before sitting down to a three-course meal presented on gilt-edged china. With wood panelling and butler service, the sleeping cabins have the feel of a bygone era, but come with modern conveniences like ensuite bathrooms and air-conditioning. Lulled to sleep by the gentle rocking of the train, it’s an intoxicating way to experience Iran.
Whether travelling by train or not, most journeys start in the capital Tehran. Backed by the snowcapped Alborz Mountains, the heaving metropolis is home to more than 14 million people. Alongside propaganda murals of revolutionary leaders, visitors will find hipster cafés and chic young women wearing the requisite hijab pushed as far back as gravity will allow.
For an introduction to the lavish world of Iran’s former monarchs, visit the 19th century Golestan Palace and its dazzling Hall of Mirrors where the last Shah was crowned. The Treasury of National Jewels houses the imperial crown jewels and spoils of conquest, including the bejewelled Peacock Throne captured from the Mughals in 1739.
For a taste of everyday Iranian life, plunge headlong into the Grand Bazaar, with over 10 kilometres of lanes that attract thousands of visitors a day. Wind your way through the seemingly endless maze – getting lost is inevitable – and barter for saffron and antique Persian carpets.
Heading south, many consider Isfahan to be Iran’s prettiest city; wandering around the central Naqsh-e Jahan Square, it’s easy to see why. As the capital of the Safavid dynasty from 1598 to 1722, Isfahan’s main square was designed to showcase the empire’s finest architecture. Surrounded by cloistered walkways, two exquisitely tiled mosques and the opulent Ali Qapu palace, it truly is spectacular. You can easily spend hours gazing at the blue and green mosaic patterns of the Shah Mosque, while Iranians love to test the acoustics below the 52-metre dome, with the slightest whisper amplified around the majestic space.
Be sure to leave time to explore the Qeysarieh bazaar, a sprawling warren of vaulted tunnels where you can often see craftsmen at work, creating beautiful blue enamelled plates and marquetry jewellery boxes.
Arriving at the desert town of Yazd feels like stumbling into a medieval fairytale. The sun-scorched skyline is punctuated by the soaring minarets of the 15th century Friday Mosque and a sea of wind-towers that channel cool air into the mud-brick houses below. The magic of the old town is best captured on foot, exploring the jumble of atmospheric alleys and popping into sweet shops selling pashmak (Persian cotton candy). Don’t miss the Water Museum, where you can learn about qanats, an ingenious network of irrigation tunnels that has sustained the city for more than 3,000 years.
Yazd is also the last bastion of Zoroastrianism in Iran, the ancient religion that pre-dates Islam. Hike up to the stone funerary tower, known as the Towers of Silence, on the outskirts of the city where Zoroastrians once left their dead to the mercy of the elements.
Regarded as the cultural capital of Iran, Shiraz is Iran’s most soulful city. At sunset, head to the tomb of the 14th century poet Hafez, surrounded by rose gardens and pomegranate trees. Iranians love to gather here to take part in the ritual of Fal’e Hafez (Ask Hafez), opening a book of his poetry at random and using whatever line they see first to guide them.
Shiraz is also the gateway to Persepolis, founded by Darius the Great in 518BC and sacked nearly 200 years later by Alexander the Great’s army. The Archaemenian kings were pious Zoroastrians – look out for bas-reliefs of the winged figure that has become a secular symbol of Iran – and famously tolerant of other cultures. The surviving palace friezes depict hundreds of foreign guests, clad in their native dress, bearing gifts for the Persian rulers.
Overlooking the carved columns and towering sculptures of winged lions is the rusty grandstand built for the last Shah’s infamous 1971 party, where 600 mostly foreign dignitaries celebrated 2,500 years of the Persian monarchy in extravagant style. It provoked a backlash from the Iranian people, culminating in the Islamic revolution of 1979 when the Shah was deposed.
Much has changed since then, but the Iranian spirit remains undiminished. Go now, before 20 million tourists realise how special Iran is.
Lara Brunt